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3/8" a nti-rotation pins for the wings |
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Cutout for control horn on rudder |
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Don't make rounded tips on a Yak, it's not necessary and will look just fine w/o them. |
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Getting the engine box ready for the cans to be mounted. |
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New rear exit MTW cans from DA |
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Can't fit them through a traditional mount due to the long exhaust pipe that comes out of the bottom of the can. My old KS rear exit cans had the exhaust coming out of the middle and bending downward which allowed me to fit them into my mount, but they were recessed about 3" inside my fuse which I think contributed to the covering streching and coming of the bottom of the plane a time or two (the plane was not a carden and had a stick built non sheeted fuse which contributed to the problem as wello) |
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Making the bottom landing gear cover |
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Removeable hatch to access cans and platform for the gas tank |
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Plate for the smart fly turbo regulators |
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A pic of a part of my homeade wiring harness. I'll make a special link just for the wiring and post information about testing I have conducted with various ohm loads through certain switched, connectors, wire size and length which is why I wire my planes in the manner shown. |
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Starting to cover the bottom of the fuse |
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Tail covered |
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Fuse mostly covered. Still need to put the trim on it. Hatch, wheel pants and canopy will just remained primed until I can figure out if the black canopy will be ok with the two 3/8" holes on top, 1/4" hole in front and no decking underneath. If it gets warped by the sun in the 1st week of flying it then I will replace it and only have to paint once.
I do have a canopy helmate for it. |
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Once again, just use square tips on a yak, no need to mess with the rounded stuff |
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One wing, no the gap isn't that big in the hinge line, the aileron is just resing on the wing |
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Both wings |
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Bottom of the wings. Same as the old Extra (R.I.P.) |
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Bottom of tail
Did I mention that you shouldn't do rounded tips if it can be avoided? I think it can ALWAYS be avoided. |
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